Review - Jurlique Herbal Recovery Signature Serum
Updated: Jul 13, 2020
Once again, I was one of the lucky beautyheaven members who have been asked to trial a new product before it was available in the market. This time, we were asked to trial and review the Jurlique Herbal Recovery Signature Serum, a reformulation of the Jurlique Herbal Recovery Advanced Serum.
This serum contains a long list of plant extracts. Apart from a small amount of glycerin (which is a humectant), I do not see another ingredient which I would consider to be "active" and in pure form. The three "key" ingredients as identified in the official Jurlique website are:
Viola tricolor extract - "known for its hydrating properties, the pure Viola from our organic farm in the South Australian hills helps moisturise and protect the skin". A quick research shows that it contains antioxidants, and has been used in traditional medicine for its skin calming and anti-inflammatory properties.
Red clover extract - "scientifically proven to enhance the hydrating role of Hyaluronic Acid which helps smooth out the appearance of lines and wrinkles". Red clover extract does have some skin soothing properties, but I found this claim of enhancing the function hyaluronic acid to be a peculiar one to make here: this serum does not contain any hyaluronic acid! Our skin naturally has hyaluronic acid, but the amount will vary greatly between individuals. So if works particularly well with hyaluronic acid, it is very strange to not put some into the formulation.
Yarrow flower extract - "Yarrow extract from the Jurlique farm helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for smoother skin resulting in skin feeling firmer and having a more youthful appearance." I am unfamiliar with this extract and a quick search seems to give me some conflicting results as to its uses - it can be used as an astringent (contains salicylic acid) or an emollient (moisturising). So maybe it can do both.
This serum has a thin gel consistency. Upon applying onto the skin, it is very easy to spread and quickly absorbed. There is not much residue left, and is perfect to use under moisturiser or sunscreen. There is a subtle botanical scent which dissipates quickly. There is a special luxurious feel to it from the combination of packaging, consistency and scent. My skin has been quite dehydrated lately. In the morning, I use a regular moisturiser after applying this serum. In the evening, I still layer hyaluronic acid after using this serum (because it is supposed to work well with hyaluronic acid) followed by a night cream. I found that after using this serum for just a few days, my skin already started to feel less tight, and more comfortable throughout the day. I think this serum is quite effective in hydrating my skin, which is a pleasant surprise for me because it does not contain a lot of humectants, and yet it seems to be an effective hydrator.
After 2-3 weeks, I started to notice that my skin was more bumpy in texture, and was perhaps looking just slightly less radiant. That said, I honestly do not think that the serum has caused this to happen. The real reason, I think, was due to the fact that I had been using very powerful active ingredients such as glycolic acid, other AHAs and BHA, as well as vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) prior to this trial. In order to trial this serum properly, I stopped using these actives. After a couple of weeks, it was normal that the effect of the actives started to wear off. Overall, my skin still looked okay, and it certainly felt better than it looked. After another week, my skin seemed to re-adjust and the bumps started to smooth out again.
I think that this serum is not a bad choice if you are into plant extracts and want something that is lightweight and hydrating. In fact, I must admit that I quite enjoy using it because it feels very nice on the skin. However, for this price ($135 for 50mL), I prefer my serum to be more powerful in delivering visible results.
Differences between old and new formulations
If you have been using the old Jurlique Herbal Recovery Advanced Serum, you would want to know what are the differences between the two formulations. I have used the old one some years ago. The consistency of the new one is thinner and it is more readily absorbed, it also feels less sticky than the old version (although the old version was not very sticky at all).
When I compare the ingredients side-by-side (see the bottom of this post), it is immediately apparent that the old formulation is more extensive. Notably, niacinamide (vitamin B3), ascorbyl glucoside (a vitamin C derivative) and squalane (a natural moisturising factor) have been completely omitted when the serum was reformulated. Glycerin (a humectant for water binding) has taken a back seat (was the 3rd ingredient in the old formulation). The number of plant extracts has also gone down. I do like this serum that I have, but if I was given a choice between the two, based on the ingredients I would pick the old formulation.
Full ingredient list
Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Citrus unshiu Peel Extract, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Fagus sylvatica Bud Extract, Cryptomeria japonica Bud Extract, Achillea millefolium Extract, Viola tricolor Extract, Trifolium pratense (Clover) Flower Extract, Althaea officinalis Root Extract, Calendula officinalis Flower Extract, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Rosa gallica Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Fragrance/Parfum*, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Pullulan, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Limonene*, Linalool*, Geraniol*, Citronellol*. *From Natural Essential Oil
Ingredient list of the old formulation
(retrieved from lookfantastic.com)
Aqua (Water); Propanediol; Glycerin; Niacinamide; Silica; Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil; Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil; Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil; Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract; Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Seed Extract; Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract; Althaea Officinalis Root Extract; Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract; Rosa Gallica Flower Extract; Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract; Stellaria Media (Chickweed) Extract; Echinacea Purpurea Extract; Viola Tricolor Extract; Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract; Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract; Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract; Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract; Taraxacum Officinale Extract; Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract; Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract; Arnica Montana Flower Extract; Panax Ginseng Root Extract; Euphrasia Officinalis Extract; Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract; Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract; Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract; Ascorbyl Glucoside; Lysolecithin; Sclerotium Gum; Squalane; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; Xanthan Gum; Pullulan; Totarol; Tocopherol; Fragrance/Parfum*; Sodium Dehydroacetate; Phenethyl Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40-A (Alcohol Denat.); Linalool*; Geraniol*; Citronellol*. *From Natural Essential Oil.
Makeup artist and hair stylist based in Sydney. Founder of the well-known award-winning bridal specialist team Faces Makeup & Hair. Beauty junkie with an obsession for skincare.